Each Cook Ought to Train At This Spot’: Unassuming Turkish Restaurant Earns Fourth on Ranking of London’s Best Restaurants.

Whenever curating a ranking of London’s best dining spots, one might anticipate renowned high-end venues. But, nestled high among these culinary titans is a simple salonu situated in a distant area of north London.

A Shocking Accolade

This little Turkish spot, concentrating in the specialties of Mersin, a metropolis on Turkey’s southern coast, has been crowned the fourth finest restaurant in the city by a influential gastronomic guide. This recognition has made the family totally shocked.

“I’m utterly shocked,” states a proprietor, pointing to his family’s relentless work that led to their small restaurant earning such a prominent spot on a prestigious 99-strong list.

The Appeal of Modesty

This compact space, which was a basic cafe before its change into a sought-after food hotspot, has maintained much of its former charm. It accommodates just over 20 people and, aside from the vibrant live cooking performance, the interior remains mostly unchanged. “It is a small and stocky spot,” says the owner.

A Star Dish: Tantuni

However, it’s all down to the fare, and this restaurant more than excels. The eatery’s namesake dish, tantuni, is a straightforward pleasure. The meat—either lamb or chicken—is cooked with steam to keep a moist, juicy quality.

It is then added into a large pan with seasonings and oil, which are incorporated in slowly. As the flavourful mixture heats through, handmade lavaş—a soft bread—is placed on top to absorb all the juices. Finely sliced onions and a dash of parsley go inside before the tasty meat is rolled securely inside.

It is typically enjoyed with a drizzle of lemon or some pickles. The final product is a powerful burst of taste, with subtle hints of sumac, bold onions and rich, paprika-red oil tying it all in harmony.

Other Than the Basic Tantuni

Patrons can also try yoğurtlu tantuni, where the meat-filled lavaş is sliced and crowned with yogurt, tomato sauce and aromatic brown butter. A leading food critic called this dish “a part of London’s few flawless, impeccable dishes”.

For sweets, the eatery’s künefe is a delight. It is coated in lighter syrup than usual, imparting it a more intense, more aromatic and not overly sweet flavour.

Rising Above the Stars

Remarkably, this unassuming spot has ranked above several celebrated three-Michelin-starred establishments. It finds itself near the peak of the list, trailing other high-profile dining destinations.

Whereas two people could readily leave the restaurant full for less than £25, comparable experiences at top-tier establishments can cost significantly more than that figure.

The Creed of Hospitality

It is also one of several Turkish restaurants listed and is found well outside the city’s central zones. “It’s not focused on luxury. London is an pricey city. It is expectation that in an expensive place you’re going to have the best service and finest food but I don’t subscribe to that,” explains the owner.

“In my view what is crucial is friendliness, a welcoming atmosphere and a place you can be yourself and feel calm.”

This philosophy is echoed by the list’s compiler, who remarked that if he was in a position of power, he would “insist to make every chef in London train at this restaurant as a masterclass, to teach them the dangers of excess, and to show what is achievable if you do just one – or three – things to their absolute best”.

A Story of Hard Work

In contrast to most chefs heading kitchens in the list’s highest ranks, the head chef behind the food did not apprentice at Michelin-starred establishments. “I am truly pleased of our shop and our mum,” concludes her son.

Many restaurants take years to establish themselves, but this eatery first started seven years ago. Its popularity is thanks to tireless, seven-day weeks of work.

“Our mum would be really tired. She would buy ingredients in the morning and create the food in the afternoon. Everything is made by hand; she would manage all of this. She is a solo parent and she managed a social life but her friends would come here to support her. She was raising children and a house to manage as well. Each of these roles shaped her into what she is now: a brilliant person,” he says.

A Achievement for the Community

The restaurant’s success is likely to echo outside its own doors. “I think a lot of people would be pleased, as I am, because the Turkish community is a major part of London,” says the owner, highlighting the greater importance of this culinary honour.

Jacob Chambers
Jacob Chambers

A passionate horticulturist with over a decade of experience in organic gardening and landscape design.